I have been collecting jewelry from India for almost 7 years now, way before the style became popular with the mainstream. I bought many of my pieces from LA based designer Suzanne Wilson, who has an incredible eye and travels to India often to find gems to share with her clients in the US. My favorite style is called Indo-Russian, a period inspired by the styles of Russian and Victorian jewels. Old mine cut diamonds are used (not to be confused with Old European cut, old mine cut refer to diamonds from old diamond mines from India) and I prefer the look of old diamonds over new. It's less shiny and so much more tasteful. You can stack three or more old mine cut diamond bracelets on and it won't look tacky! Most Indo Russian pieces are cast in 22k gold with the diamonds set in oxydized silver. You can distinguish a well made Indian jewels by the gallery work put in it (intricate metalsmith work on back of the jewelry). Indian jewelry will look just as beautiful from the back as the front, so turn it around to check out the details before you buy! The antique pieces are best but there are also amazing pieces made in India in the last few decades that use the old mine cut diamonds (the diamonds are hundreds of years old, the setting is not).
There is so much Indian jewelry available right now but the best is still Gem Palace in Jaipur (the Cartier of India). I have several pieces from there and wear them with everything from jeans and ball gowns. The versatility of Indo Russian jewels make them great to travel with!
Recently in Antique Jewels Category
Elizabeth Taylor wearing La Peregrina Pearl; Portrait by Diego Velazquez of Queen Mariana of Spain wearing La Peregrina Pearl
I went to see Cartier's 100th Anniversary exhibit at their Rodeo Drive store and there were a lot of incredible pieces, many worthy of individual mention but since I love other people's drama, the one that caught my full attention is La Peregrina Pearl, on loan from Elizabeth Taylor. Seriously, a movie or entire soap opera saga can be based on it's 500 year history.
The origins are a bit fuzzy, there are several versions with varying details but the basic story is the same. It was found in Panama in 1513 by a slave and brought to Spain and given to the Crown Prince, Phillip II. He rewarded the slave with freedom. The pearl was given to Mary Tudor of England (daughter of the notorious womanizer, Henry VIII, she was the daughter of the first of his 6 wives) as an engagement present in 1554. She ascended the throne in 1553 and was a sweet and well like Princess. But she had differing views on religion from her dad. See, he needed to keep divorcing or beheading his wives because they couldn't give him a son. Catholicism, and mainly the Pope, wasn't so hot on his marital practices so Henry had to turn the entire country Protestant in order to get his divorce.
The problem is, the person he needed to divorce was Mary's mother, Catherine of Aragon, who was Spanish and devoutly Catholic. Henry made Mary sign some papers renouncing Catherine as ever being the Queen, basically making Mary a bastard. She held a grudge and was pretty bitter so when she ascended to the throne, she made the country Catholic again, which didn't go over so well. Many died during this period, for which she was held accountable thus given the lovely nickname "Bloody Mary". Now you know what had to happen the next time you're hungover and enjoying one of those. Mary died in 1558 to the relief of the entire country and the throne went to her half sister, Elizabeth I, whose reign is knowns as The Golden Age (like the movie!).
